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Streamlining is the name of the game for recreational, technical and commercial divers. Here, you'll find all the hardware needed to mount and stow all of your gear in a clean, efficient manner. From stage bottles, to reels, to backup lights, and whatever else you might need to rig.

Need some help figuring out how to rig your gear? Give our staff a call or drop us an email.

We sell premium high-quality heavy-duty (316-series) stainless steel hardware specifically for use in marine diving applications. We stock only the designs and sizes listed. We reserve the right to limit order quantities because our supply is appropriate for the demands of individual divers, but not bulk orders. Large volume bulk orders will not qualify for free shipping.

Technical Tip

Stainless does not mean Stainproof

A common misconception among divers is that stainless steel does not corrode at all. There are various types of stainless steel, each with different corrosion properties, that make a specific grade more or less suited to a particular application. Because there is no perfect stainless steel, the selection of the grade is often a compromise between corrosion resistance and malleability. Stainless grades selected because they hold a sharp cutting edge will corrode relatively fast compared to other grades. The most corrosion resistant grades are not usually a good choice for bolt snaps and hand tools because depending on the use application they may not offer the best wear resistance or may be too brittle.

Stainless does not mean Stainproof and all diving products made of stainless steel must receive some basic care to help minimize corrosion. Rinse any stainless steel components in dive equipment with fresh water after diving or when otherwise in contact with salt water, allow them to dry and do not store them in damp or moist environments. Make sure any storage sheath or pouch is also rinsed and allowed to dry before returning the stainless item to the pouch. When rinsing bolt snaps, be sure to work the bolt action several times to eject any saltwater trapped in the slider and spring mechanism. In particular, avoid storing stainless steel near or in contact with other metals having strongly dissimilar electropotentials, especially aluminium, such that moisture can induce galvanic corrosion. In cases of galvanic corrosion where the stainless item is in close proximity to some types of metals, rust or other colour stains will electrolytically transfer to the surface of the stainless item.

An invisible film forms on the surface of stainless steel when it's in contact with oxygen. This allows it to withstand damage from corrosives including many acids, bases, and detergents, as well as salt water. However, depending on envirionmental conditions you may notice some surface 'stains' that can form on various stainless items. In general these are cosmetic in nature and we recommend you allow the cosmetic stains to remain when practical. Using an abrasive is more likely to remove the invisible corrosion resistant film that forms on stainless, allowing corrosion to spread and ultimately making the corrosion worse.

Properties of Stainless Steel

  • Hardness - As hardness increases, metals become more wear resistant but they may be less malleable. Some types of stainless steel harden by cold working, and others can be heat treated. The 300 series hardens by cold working, many in the 400 series can be hardened by heat treating.
  • Formability - Stainless steel is generally formable and bendable, but types that harden by cold working can require more force to bend than carbon steel.
  • Machinability - During machining, stainless steel can become gummy and stick to cutting tools, making it typically more difficult to machine than steel.
  • Weldability - Take care to clean stainless steel before and after welding operations. Contaminants, such as lubricants and particles from grinding tools, will reduce corrosion resistance at welded points.
  • Finish - Stainless steel does not always have a shiny finish. In fact, stainless steel is available in a number of finishes, ranging from an unpolished, dull surface to a reflective mirror-like shine.

Clifton Springs Piers

Shore Dive Shore Dive | Shore access Shore access

Ideal For Snorkelling Inside Port Phillip Night Dive Site Open Water Rated Spearfishing Site

Clifton Springs Snorkeller
Clifton Springs Snorkeller | © Unknown

Level: Open Water and beyond.

Depth: 1 m (3.28 ft) to 4 m (13 ft)

Clifton Springs, Old Swimming Baths is a delightful shore dive, also suitable for snorkellers. A nice night dive site. It's a shallow dive, best done at high tide. Best to use a dive float with a dive flag.

There are three pier ruins in this area near Clifton Springs on the Bellarine Peninsula in Port Phillip. To the west are the ruins of the old Short Pier near the boat harbour. In the middle are the ruins of the old Salt Water Bath Pier which had swimming baths at the end. To the east are the ruins of the old (Long) Steamship Pier.

Bottle hunting here is popular but requires skill not to stir up the sand and sediment. Seahorses, nudibranchs, stingrays and pipefish can be found at these piers.

Clifton Springs Night Dive from Allie Beckhurst on Vimeo.

Location: Clifton Springs
MELWAY Ref: Page 456 G5

Ideal Conditions: Best at high tide. Protected from southerly winds. See WillyWeather (Clifton Springs) as a guide for the tide times and the height of the tide.

Clifton Springs, Old Swimming Baths
Clifton Springs, Old Swimming Baths | © Unknown
Clifton Springs, Old Swimming Baths Dive Sie Map
Clifton Springs, Old Swimming Baths Dive Sie Map | © The Scuba Doctor

The Sunken Gallery

There are plans to create The Sunken Gallery, an underwater sculpture experience, near this dive site.

The local community and visitors will be able to put on a mask and snorkel in a safe and family-friendly environment and explore the unique colour and diversity of the southern Port Phillip.

It will feature a collection of underwater sculptures, which will become a living and evolving underwater canvas that attracts marine life and changes with the seasons.

Clifton Springs, Old Swimming Baths History

Clifton Springs  Bath House and Pier
Clifton Springs Bath House and Pier
© State Library Victoria

The Salt Water Bath Pier featured a saltwater bath house located at the end of the pier, adjacent to the former manager's house at the western end of the Dell. The date of construction is unknown, however, it does not appear in the illustration from 1879 and is present in a photograph of the Spa House dated c.1891. It is therefore assumed to have been constructed during the 1880s. This pier is included in the Victorian Heritage Register (H2088).

See also, Heritage Council Victoria: Former Mineral Springs, Clifton Springs, and
Heritage Council Victoria: Short Pier, Clifton Springs.

Spearfishing is illegal within 30 metres of any pier or jetty and in Marine National Parks. See Spearfishing Laws.

Wathaurong (Wadda-Warrung) country
Wathaurong (Wadda-Warrung) country

Traditional Owners — This dive site is in the traditional Country of the Wathaurong (Wadda-Warrung) people of the Kulin Nation. This truly ancient Country includes the coastline of Port Phillip, from the Werribee River in the north-east, the Bellarine Peninsula, and down to Cape Otway in the south-west. We wish to acknowledge the Wathaurong as Traditional Owners. We pay respect to their Ancestors and their Elders, past, present and emerging. We acknowledge Bunjil the Creator Spirit of this beautiful land, who travels as an eagle, and Waarn, who protects the waterways and travels as a crow, and thank them for continuing to watch over this Country today and beyond.


Clifton Springs Piers Location Map

Latitude: 38° 9.177′ S   (38.15295° S / 38° 9′ 10.62″ S)
Longitude: 144° 33.726′ E   (144.5621° E / 144° 33′ 43.56″ E)

Datum: WGS84 | Google Map | Get directions
Added: 2012-07-22 09:00:00 GMT, Last updated: 2022-03-22 14:13:16 GMT
Source: Google Earth
Nearest Neighbour: Clifton Springs, Steamship Pier, 599 m, bearing 48°, NE
Bellarine Peninsula.
Depth: 1 to 4 m.

DISCLAIMER: No claim is made by The Scuba Doctor as to the accuracy of the dive site coordinates listed here. Should anyone decide to use these GPS marks to locate and dive on a site, they do so entirely at their own risk. Always verify against other sources.

The marks come from numerous sources including commercial operators, independent dive clubs, reference works, and active divers. Some are known to be accurate, while others may not be. Some GPS marks may even have come from maps using the AGD66 datum, and thus may need be converted to the WGS84 datum. To distinguish between the possible accuracy of the dive site marks, we've tried to give each mark a source of GPS, Google Earth, or unknown.


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